Underextrusion Troubleshooting
Diagnose and fix underextrusion: weak prints, gaps in perimeters, sparse infill, and broken structures. Includes visual diagnosis guide, root causes, and step-by-step fixes for all printers and materials.
Last updated: May 2026
What is underextrusion? (And how to spot it)
Underextrusion means the printer isn't pushing out enough plastic. The nozzle extrudes less material than the slicer expects, resulting in weak, gappy prints.
Visual signs of underextrusion:
- Perimeter gaps: Outer walls have small holes or gaps. Light passes through the printed shell.
- Sparse infill: Interior fill pattern has big holes instead of a solid grid. Part is hollow-looking inside.
- Weak, fragile layers: Print looks OK from outside but crumbles easily when you squeeze it.
- Text and features fail: Thin walls (0.4mm or smaller) don't print. Text becomes invisible or just a trace.
- First layer looks thin: First layer has visible gaps between lines instead of solid coverage.
- Different materials behave differently: One material underextrudes while another works fine (diagnostic clue)
Quick diagnosis: Print a 20mm cube with 0% infill and 1 perimeter
A single-perimeter cube shows underextrusion instantly. If the perimeter has gaps or looks thin (< 0.4mm), you're underextruding.
Root causes of underextrusion (in priority order)
- Flow/extrusion multiplier set too low (20% of cases): Slicer is telling printer to extrude only 80–90% of normal. Easy to fix.
- Nozzle temperature too low (15% of cases): Cold plastic doesn't flow well. Especially common with materials like PETG or ABS.
- Clogged or partially clogged nozzle (20% of cases): Blockage restricts plastic flow. Most common culprit.
- Filament diameter wrong in slicer (10% of cases): Slicer thinks you have 1.75mm filament but you have 2.85mm. Under or overextrudes significantly.
- Extruder slipping (15% of cases): Stepper motor can't push filament through. Usually indicates high resistance (clogged nozzle or jammed filament).
- Nozzle size mismatch (10% of cases): Slicer configured for 0.6mm nozzle, but you're using 0.4mm. Creates underextrusion.
- Z-offset too high (5% of cases): Nozzle too far from bed. Plastic forced out at low pressure, extrudes poorly.
- Filament material mismatch (3% of cases): Some materials (carbon-filled, glass-filled) extrude differently than standard.
- Extruder skipping consistently (2% of cases): Rare. Indicates extruder drive gear stripped or filament worn smooth.
Fix sequence (follow in order)
Step 1: Check slicer flow/extrusion multiplier (fastest fix)
- Open your slicer (Cura, PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer)
- Look for "Flow" or "Extrusion Multiplier" setting
- Should be 1.0 (100%)
- If it's 0.9 or lower, increase to 1.0
- Slice and print a test cube
Common reason it's wrong: You may have set it to 0.9 after a previous overextrusion problem and forgot to reset it.
Step 2: Verify filament diameter
- Open your slicer
- Settings ? Filament ? Diameter
- Usually 1.75mm or 2.85mm
- Check your filament package for actual diameter
- If wrong, change in slicer
Common mistake: Wrong diameter = proportionally wrong extrusion. A 1.75mm setting on 2.85mm filament extrudes 2.6× less plastic (wrong by huge margin).
Step 3: Check nozzle size in slicer matches your physical nozzle
- Slicer settings: "Nozzle diameter"
- Should match your printer's actual nozzle (usually 0.4mm, sometimes 0.6mm or 0.8mm)
- If mismatch, change in slicer
Step 4: Raise nozzle temperature by 5–10°C
- Hotter plastic flows more easily
- Example: 210°C → 215°C for PLA, or 245°C → 250°C for PETG
- Print a test cube
Tip: If temperature was the issue, underextrusion stops immediately.
Step 5: Swap the nozzle (if still underextruding)
- Even "clean-looking" nozzles can have partial clogs invisible to the eye
- Cost: $2–7 per nozzle
- Install new nozzle and test
- If underextrusion stops, old nozzle was clogged
Step 6: Clean the nozzle while installed (if you want to try first)
- Heat to 280°C
- While hot, use a thin brass wire to gently push through the nozzle opening
- Cool and test
- (Only works if clog is reachable; deep clogs need nozzle swap)
Step 7: Check Z-offset (nozzle height)
- If nozzle is too high, it can't push filament with enough pressure
- Run a bed level test: nozzle should have slight drag on paper
- If too high, adjust Z-offset down 0.1mm and test
Step 8: Verify filament is not stripped (advanced)
- Remove filament from extruder
- Look at the part that was gripped by the drive gear
- If it's smooth with no teeth marks, the gear slipped (underextrusion)
- If teeth marks look deep/ground, filament was worn. Swap for new filament.
Material-specific underextrusion issues
PLA underextrusion:
- Usual cause: Nozzle partially clogged (PLA clogs easily). Swap nozzle.
- Temperature fix: Raise from 210°C to 215°C
- Prevention: Replace nozzle every 50+ hours of printing (PLA is abrasive)
PETG underextrusion:
- Usual cause: Nozzle temperature. PETG is sensitive to temp (240–260°C range).
- Temperature fix: Raise from 245°C to 250°C (cold PETG doesn't flow)
- Also check: Flow rate using volumetric flow calculator. Keep under 12 mm³/s.
ABS underextrusion:
- Usual cause: Nozzle temperature. ABS needs 230–250°C minimum.
- Temperature fix: Raise to 245°C minimum
- Also check: Bed temperature. ABS needs 100°C+ bed temp. Cold bed makes first layer weak ? rest of print underextrusites as compensation.
TPU/Flexible underextrusion:
- Usual cause: Direct drive extruder required. Bowden extruders can't push flexible filament reliably.
- Fix: Switch to printer with direct drive, or reduce print speed to 30 mm/s and accept slow prints.
When underextrusion is actually overextrusion in disguise
Sometimes what looks like underextrusion is actually overextrusion causing the nozzle to jam. Confusing, but here's how to tell:
- Underextrusion: Walls are thin and gappy, infill is sparse, perimeters have visible holes.
- Overextrusion masquerading as underextrusion: Nozzle clogs from overextrusion, then as it clogs, flow decreases, making prints look underextruded. Stepper may slip trying to push through the clog.
Diagnosis: If swapping nozzle fixes it immediately, it was a clog (overextrusion caused the clog). If raising temperature fixes it, it was underextrusion (cold material).
FAQ
I just changed filament and now everything underextrudes. What's wrong?
New filament often has different properties. Most likely: (1) Wrong diameter set in slicer (check package), (2) Different material needs different temp (e.g., switching from generic PLA to Prusament PLA), or (3) Old filament was already selected for slightly lower flow, and new filament hasn't been tuned. Start by checking filament diameter, then raise nozzle temp by 5°C and test.
My first layer underextrudes but later layers are fine. What's the issue?
Nozzle is too high from bed (Z-offset too high). Plastic can't be pushed onto the bed with sufficient pressure. Adjust Z-offset down 0.1mm and test. If first layer improves and later layers still good, you found it.
Underextrusion only happens on high-speed prints. What's the issue?
Nozzle temperature is marginal, and high speed extrusion rate pushes cold plastic. Fix: raise nozzle temp by 5–10°C, or reduce print speed by 20 mm/s. Or both. High speed = hotter nozzle needed.
Can underextrusion cause weak layer bonding?
Yes. Underextruded layers don't fill their shape completely, so each layer has less contact area with the previous one. Result: weak interlayer bonds, parts that delaminate. Fix underextrusion (raise temp, swap nozzle), and layer bonding improves.
My nozzle looks clean, but print still underextrudes. Where else should I look?
Check these in order: (1) Slicer flow/extrusion multiplier (set to 1.0?), (2) Filament diameter (matches package?), (3) Nozzle diameter in slicer (0.4mm setting for 0.4mm nozzle?), (4) Nozzle temperature (PLA 210°C+, PETG 245°C+, ABS 240°C+?), (5) Z-offset (not too high?). One of these five is almost always the problem.
Should I increase flow multiplier instead of raising temperature?
No. Increase flow multiplier only if you're certain the nozzle is working correctly. If nozzle is cold or partially clogged, increasing flow just makes it worse (more pressure on a cold nozzle = jam). Always raise temperature first, then swap nozzle. Only adjust flow multiplier if everything else checks out.