Underextrusion Troubleshooting

Diagnose and fix underextrusion: weak prints, gaps in perimeters, sparse infill, and broken structures. Includes visual diagnosis guide, root causes, and step-by-step fixes for all printers and materials.

Last updated: May 2026

What is underextrusion? (And how to spot it)

Underextrusion means the printer isn't pushing out enough plastic. The nozzle extrudes less material than the slicer expects, resulting in weak, gappy prints.

Visual signs of underextrusion:

Quick diagnosis: Print a 20mm cube with 0% infill and 1 perimeter

A single-perimeter cube shows underextrusion instantly. If the perimeter has gaps or looks thin (< 0.4mm), you're underextruding.

Root causes of underextrusion (in priority order)

  1. Flow/extrusion multiplier set too low (20% of cases): Slicer is telling printer to extrude only 80–90% of normal. Easy to fix.
  2. Nozzle temperature too low (15% of cases): Cold plastic doesn't flow well. Especially common with materials like PETG or ABS.
  3. Clogged or partially clogged nozzle (20% of cases): Blockage restricts plastic flow. Most common culprit.
  4. Filament diameter wrong in slicer (10% of cases): Slicer thinks you have 1.75mm filament but you have 2.85mm. Under or overextrudes significantly.
  5. Extruder slipping (15% of cases): Stepper motor can't push filament through. Usually indicates high resistance (clogged nozzle or jammed filament).
  6. Nozzle size mismatch (10% of cases): Slicer configured for 0.6mm nozzle, but you're using 0.4mm. Creates underextrusion.
  7. Z-offset too high (5% of cases): Nozzle too far from bed. Plastic forced out at low pressure, extrudes poorly.
  8. Filament material mismatch (3% of cases): Some materials (carbon-filled, glass-filled) extrude differently than standard.
  9. Extruder skipping consistently (2% of cases): Rare. Indicates extruder drive gear stripped or filament worn smooth.

Fix sequence (follow in order)

Step 1: Check slicer flow/extrusion multiplier (fastest fix)

Common reason it's wrong: You may have set it to 0.9 after a previous overextrusion problem and forgot to reset it.

Step 2: Verify filament diameter

Common mistake: Wrong diameter = proportionally wrong extrusion. A 1.75mm setting on 2.85mm filament extrudes 2.6× less plastic (wrong by huge margin).

Step 3: Check nozzle size in slicer matches your physical nozzle

Step 4: Raise nozzle temperature by 5–10°C

Tip: If temperature was the issue, underextrusion stops immediately.

Step 5: Swap the nozzle (if still underextruding)

Step 6: Clean the nozzle while installed (if you want to try first)

Step 7: Check Z-offset (nozzle height)

Step 8: Verify filament is not stripped (advanced)

Material-specific underextrusion issues

PLA underextrusion:

PETG underextrusion:

ABS underextrusion:

TPU/Flexible underextrusion:

When underextrusion is actually overextrusion in disguise

Sometimes what looks like underextrusion is actually overextrusion causing the nozzle to jam. Confusing, but here's how to tell:

Diagnosis: If swapping nozzle fixes it immediately, it was a clog (overextrusion caused the clog). If raising temperature fixes it, it was underextrusion (cold material).

FAQ

I just changed filament and now everything underextrudes. What's wrong?

New filament often has different properties. Most likely: (1) Wrong diameter set in slicer (check package), (2) Different material needs different temp (e.g., switching from generic PLA to Prusament PLA), or (3) Old filament was already selected for slightly lower flow, and new filament hasn't been tuned. Start by checking filament diameter, then raise nozzle temp by 5°C and test.

My first layer underextrudes but later layers are fine. What's the issue?

Nozzle is too high from bed (Z-offset too high). Plastic can't be pushed onto the bed with sufficient pressure. Adjust Z-offset down 0.1mm and test. If first layer improves and later layers still good, you found it.

Underextrusion only happens on high-speed prints. What's the issue?

Nozzle temperature is marginal, and high speed extrusion rate pushes cold plastic. Fix: raise nozzle temp by 5–10°C, or reduce print speed by 20 mm/s. Or both. High speed = hotter nozzle needed.

Can underextrusion cause weak layer bonding?

Yes. Underextruded layers don't fill their shape completely, so each layer has less contact area with the previous one. Result: weak interlayer bonds, parts that delaminate. Fix underextrusion (raise temp, swap nozzle), and layer bonding improves.

My nozzle looks clean, but print still underextrudes. Where else should I look?

Check these in order: (1) Slicer flow/extrusion multiplier (set to 1.0?), (2) Filament diameter (matches package?), (3) Nozzle diameter in slicer (0.4mm setting for 0.4mm nozzle?), (4) Nozzle temperature (PLA 210°C+, PETG 245°C+, ABS 240°C+?), (5) Z-offset (not too high?). One of these five is almost always the problem.

Should I increase flow multiplier instead of raising temperature?

No. Increase flow multiplier only if you're certain the nozzle is working correctly. If nozzle is cold or partially clogged, increasing flow just makes it worse (more pressure on a cold nozzle = jam). Always raise temperature first, then swap nozzle. Only adjust flow multiplier if everything else checks out.

What's Next?

After diagnosing underextrusion: